Galápagos and Quito

Galápagos and Quito

Sep 25-Oct 6
AV205 YYZ-BOG, AV169 BOG-UIO, Sep 29 AV1790 UIO-GPS, Oct 5 AV1791 GPS-UIO, AV124 UIO-BOG, AV204 BOG-YYZ

Galápagos has been on our short list of travel destinations for a while, and eventually needed to make its way to the top. We’ve been stalled on progressing the BBC 50 Places to See Before you Die, so were happy to move forward again with a relatively easy trip.

There are many cruise options in Galápagos, mostly 16-person ships to maintain an appropriate proportion of guide to passengers, which I was concerned would be difficult for sea sickness. I got a recommendation from a coworker who traveled in 2024, and was quite happy with their cruise experience on a 50-person Celebrity Cruise. Unfortunately, Celebrity recently sold off those ships before we could book and ended up with just the Flora, a 100-passenger ship.

Before booking, I was a little concerned about the larger-sized ship, but based on all the reviews, it sounded like the larger ship offered more stability with additional amenities. In addition, the excursions ultimately ended up with generally around a dozen people with one guide, so it never felt crowded. Celebrity had two cruise routes, an Inner and Outer Loop that had different itineraries. Ultimately, we chose the Inner Loop based on the wildlife opportunities, and most specifically the red footed booby, unique to this itinerary.

Sep 26

After our overnight flight from Toronto to Bogota, we had a few hours before continuing on to Quito, and we were able to shower in the lounge. Avianca business class was readily available with Aeroplan Points, but unfortunately doesn’t have a very comfortable seat so didn’t exactly arrive well rested.

A Celebrity representative met us at the airport and drove us to the pre-cruise hotel in Quito. Luckily, I have lifetime Marriott status, so we were able to get an early check-in and a nice room upgrade. Knowing that we’d have a formal tour the following day, we decided to just have a relaxing day at the hotel and give some time to adjust to the higher altitude.

Sep 27

As part of our cruise package, we had an add-on of a full-day tour of Quito. In addition to allowing us to experience more of Ecuador, it ensured that we’d have common transport to the ship. The majority of passengers on the cruise did the same, so we got to connect with many of them in advance. Kudos to the cruise company to putting the majority of the Canadians together on the same tour bus, giving us common ground.

Although it was a full day, it wasn’t rushed, and we had time for a leisurely breakfast before the buses picked us up at the hotel.

At the end of the museum tour, there were a number of equator trick demonstrations that attempted to demonstrate variation in the flow of water down the drain and challenges balancing on the equator because of effects on inner ear. Although nice science lessons, ultimately the small differences weren’t enough to trigger what they were claiming to demonstrate, but it was fun to pretend.

After a bus ride back to Quito, there was time for me to have a quick swim in the hotel pool prior to a wonderful diner in a nearby restaurant with more opportunities to meet the other cruise guests that we’d be with for the next week.

Sep 28

Having suffered through a very early cruise transfer and flight diversion on our trip to Antarctica the previous year, we were happy to have a more civilized wake up call and airport transfer with no real drama. The flight from Quito to Baltra Islands was on time. After landing and staging in the airport, we were on buses to the port for tender transfer to our ship. For the first day, we were oriented to the ship, set up for the upcoming activities, and were able to enjoy a late lunch. NB: although I recognize the correct spelling of Galápagos, for simplicity going forward I’ve anglicized and removed the accent.

With our safety drill and excursion introduction and snorkeling equipment pick up done, we felt very prepared for our first day. We had a lovely late dinner before turning in for the night, while the ship left anchor for Santiago Island.

Sep 29 - morning

For our morning option, we chose the option of a long walk and snorkel. After breakfast, we were ready for our first tender transfer and wet landing on Galapagos.

The hike was great and we were happy with all of our nature sightings. Unfortunately, we did not do well on the snorkeling as we weren’t comfortable enough to get into the deeper water with more fish. Tom also injured himself on a sharp rock making his way back, so after some local first aid we made our way back to the ship.

Sep 29 - afternoon

After lunch, we had time to relax before our long walk, our choice for our afternoon outing.

We thoroughly enjoyed our first full day in the Galapagos and a great start to our week. It was also a great day to celebrate my birthday, and we were glad that we had our dinner outside on the upper deck with some new friends we’d met on the cruise. As well as it being a beautiful night, I was happy to have a smaller audience for the birthday celebration.

Sep 30 - morning

Overnight, we had one of our longer sailings, making our way around the northern side of Isabela Island passing twice across the equator. Having just recently straddled the border near Quito, and having flown over it many times, it was nice to have the new experience of an equatorial crossing over the ocean. The morning excursion was a wildlife tender ride around Elizabeth Bay.

Using my GoPro able to catch string rays

Our first excursion without a landing was a definite highlight that allowed us to focus on the wildlife. With the early start to the day, we had a long break to relax and enjoy lunch before our afternoon activities at 3:00pm.

Sep 30 - Afternoon

For the afternoon, in addition to a fast-paced fitness walk, we choose to go out on kayaks. This was the second kayak option of the trip, but we weren’t really experienced so were reluctant to sign up. Thankfully, we were convinced by friends that did it the day before, that we’d have no issues and committed to the extra outing.

Isabela Island was the turnaround point for our Inner Loop tour as the furthest location. Although we had done it the night before, having just recently straddled the border near Quito and having flown over it many times, it was nice to formally acknowledge the new experience of an equatorial crossing over the ocean. It would have been nice to call out the moment as we were enjoying dinner and not paying attention to the exact crossing time.

Oct 1 - morning

After our longest overnight journey, we returned to Santiago Island, this time on the east coast at Sullivan Bay. After breakfast, we headed out for our excursion, the longer walk on the lava.

Back on the ship, we had an early lunch and for the first time stayed at the same anchor position, as our afternoon activities were around the nearby Bartolome Island.

Oct 1 - Afternoon

As our first snorkeling experience was far from a success, we had chosen not to try again. However, we also recognized that we were missing out on opportunities by staying on ship, so asked for permission to join the deep-water snorkeling trip but to stay on the tender during the snorkeling.

A very active group of Galapagos Penguins

Back at the ship after a long day, we were ready for the daily cocktail, excursion briefing, and a late dinner, before trying to checkout the stars from the upper deck.

Oct 2 - morning

After our overnight sailing, we were anchored at Santa Cruz near Las Bachas Beach. We had an early breakfast, followed by a beach walk.

Although the morning was spent so close to where we started, it was great to discover what we had left earlier in the week on the northern shore of Santa Cruz.

After lunch, the boat made a pass by of Daphne Major Island to see some nesting birds and the rocky terrain. We again signed up to ride along with the deep water snorkel trip before our long rocky walk on North Seymour Island.

After our afternoon hike, the tenders took us back to the ship in time for happy hour and another wonderful dinner on the ship, as we sailed towards San Cristobal Island.

Oct 3 - morning

Anchored near Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, we enjoyed an early breakfast before catching the tender for our morning hike near the San Cristóbal Environmental Interpretation Center.

Having been isolated on the ship since we departed, it was a little strange being in a small tourist town with local residents. In addition to seeing how the locals live on the islands, there was a bit of time for souvenir shopping before the tender boats took us back to the ship for lunch.

This was also another place to remember that the ship operates on its own time zone that is consistent with Quito, and one hour later than the actual time zone that the locals operate under. It was a bit baffling why they chose this option until I learned that the hours of the national park are 6:00am-6:00pm. These hours would mean that our schedule on local time would appear to require an earlier start to the day. If you create your own imaginary time zone then your passengers can sleep in before starting their day.

Oct 3 - afternoon

With everyone back on the ship and our own time zone, we sailed to the opposite side of San Cristobal, where we would have our afternoon excursion. For our option we chose a strenuous hike, as it promised more bird opportunities and some beautiful scenery.

Although with the hike it was a later arrival than usual, we still had time for happy hour and our normal excursion briefing before another wonderful dinner, as we started to sail back to Santa Cruz. Having seen the red-footed booby we’d now covered most of the creatures on our list, with the exception of the giant tortoises which were going to be the focus of our final day.

Oct 4

Our last day was a full one off the ship with departure after breakfast and back just in time for happy hour. We were now back at Santa Cruz where we’d previously visited Las Bachas on the north coast. This time from our anchor, we were dropped off in Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the Galapagos, with a population of almost 13,000 people. Once again among locals, we a little more cautious of our surroundings, but had lots of time to explore the touristed areas after our official visit to the Giant Tortoise Breeding Center at the Charles Darwin Research Station.

Having now completed our list of Galapagos creatures, we headed back on the bus to Puerto Ayora. They left plenty of time for souvenir shopping, but we grabbed an early tender to get back to the ship and start back. On arrival, ending our last excursion, we enjoyed our last welcome drink and snack and relaxed in the lounge before the formal closing and farewell toast from the captain. We enjoyed our last dinner with the new friends we’d met on the cruise as a final send-off for an extraordinary week.

Oct 5

With the formal cruise program over we anchored off Baltra Island where we’d started seven days earlier, and after breakfast left our suites and waited for our turn to disembark.

After our charter flight to Quito, we were dropped at a hotel nearer to the airport as we had a very early flight. I had a quick workout in the gym, in a small attempt to work off all of the calories that I’d taken on, and then had a final dinner with some of our cruise mates at the hotel before turning in early.

Oct 6

To catch the Air Canada flight from Bogota to Montreal, we had to leave Quito around 4:00am, which made for a very early start to the day. The first flight was smooth, but unfortunately the 9:00am AC flight quickly showed a one hour delay, due to crew constraints, that ultimately led a flight cancelation, with a makeup flight 24 hours later. As we both needed to get back to work and were soon traveling to Madrid, we pushed to get on the later Avianca non-stop flight to Toronto, which ironically was our original plan until we understood how uncomfortable that plane was in business class.

Unfortunately Air Canada wasn’t willing to put us back in business class, so we had to learn just how uncomfortable that plane could be in economy for almost 6 hours. Glad to be home regardless, we made it back safely and ready for work the next morning.

Despite the travel challenges, we had a tremendous time and as well as crossing off our 43rd of 50 Places to See Before You Die, we counted off our 116th country visited.

Cape Breton

Cape Breton